Like the Virginia Slims, advert used to say: ‘You have come a long way, baby.
That sentiment best describes the Jamaican Fashion, beauty, and modeling industries, as theirs have been the stuff from which block-busters and best-selling tomes, come.
Indeed, the modeling industry has journeyed like quite no other at one stage being strictly for entertainment, another phase it was about fashion; and yet another it was all about the models.
But throughout its many metamorphoses and self-correction, the models were always a central part of the story. And throughout the early 1980s, and into the 2000s the models truly came into their own. And gave their profession respectability and acclaim, by standing their ground and demanding that they too be considered a vital arm of the fashion industry and not just walking mannequins whose sole purpose was that of eye-candy, used to accessorize designers’ creations.
We are talking quite the journey here, from the days when models were little more than props, required to use the backdoors and or side entrances to gain access to the shows they were ‘starring’, to the point where they became the acknowledged stars of the shows, treated and greeted with respect, hounded by a public that idolized them.
In the early days, models were drawn from what was essentially two pools – first was the Airline industry (stewardesses); the second, the Beauty industry, (with a few coming from Dance groups) But the two primary sources were from these sources, as they were perceived as having an inbuilt advantage, as Airline stewardesses walked, on their flights, balancing on stilettos on turbulent flights, providing inflight service; and those from the beauty industry, having been exposed to some kind of formal training, learning how to Walk, and strut their wares as beauty contestants in the fiercest arenas of them all – live competition, vying for a crown, that could be a life-changing moment.
Recognizing the entertainment value, of the emerging industry, advertising, and marketing Guru, Anthony Gambril, first pitched the idea of a Modeling Showdown, pitting the best walkers in the industry against each other, in what was the precursor to the Miss Jamaica Fashion Model, Competition.
When the idea took root, Gambrill, became promoter, marketer and sponsor for the initial contest that saw various contenders signing up for the event, which was a one night event, like a casting call and final selection process in one, and ended up in a pose off between Audrey Burgess-Barakatt, a returning resident from out of the US; and an effervescent beauty, named Nancy Martin,
Both contestants, came prepared to fight to the death, in a gladiatorial fashion. They sought no quarter and gave none, as they went all out for the bragging rights and title, as back then there was no guarantee of a follow-up Modelling contract, for the eventual winner.
With pride on the line, and the steady applause signaling the support of their supporters in the jam-packed audience, the ladies went toe-to-toe bringing high drama to the stage and making Couture, fashion friendly.
And so, the Miss Jamaica Fashion Model Pageant was born, under the baton of young Lawyers turned entrepreneurs, Kingsley Cooper and Hillary Phillips, under the Pulse, brand.
Now, prior to the entree of Pulse as a major player in the fashion Industry, Pulse, was fast becoming a Household name in the Entertainment industry, promoting a number of concerts, featuring international singing stars, on Jamaican soil, and with a Tagline that read: Pulse, The Heartbeat of The Caribbean, the entertainment audience, rightly, expected Pulse to showcase the Fashion and Models in the best possible light, based on their track record of staging concerts.
A Tall order by any means as we are talking an expected transformation from Models being seen largely as Mannequins used for photo-shoots and little else; up to that time, they were objectified and used to pawn everything advertisers wanted to foist upon the consuming public, with no reference care, or consideration, for product appropriateness. So, making an industry out of a band of freelancers and a razzle dazzle designers, given to temper tantrums and grandiose behaviour, not based on talent, and or acclaim, but on the entitlement syndrome, you know we are talking a difficult task here.
To the Pulse team’s credit, they managed to coddle together a working group of Designers and Models, to stage seasonal shows. And as was to be expected, Spawned a number of ragtag Modeling agencies and satellite wannabes, that truth be told, was complementary, to the bigger picture.
Pretty soon Models moved into the age of Superstardom, no longer pawns, but Superstars, commanding appearance fees, scoring multi-million dollar contracts overseas; and gaining the independence to Walk for Designers of their choosing, instead of constantly going on what was described as ‘Cattle-Calls’ where girls tried to outdo each other, in the hope of snaring a campaign, a show and or even representation.
Naturally in such a competitive space, healthy and unhealthy rivalries developed, as some of these ladies were not shrinking violets, but drawn from the deadly night-shade specie of garden plant, and that made for some fierce on-stage rivalries and turf wars.
Including one famed falling-out between Pulse and two of its early Models/Instructors, Bev Corke, and Audrey Burgess-Barakatt, that led to the shortest-ever lifespan of a Modelling agency, as Ms. Corke and Mrs. Burgess-Barakatt, in a fit of pique and moment of anger, walked out of Pulse, to supposedly form their own Model Management Company, but that lasted for all of the 5-Minutes, after one artfully penned Letter from Kingsley Cooper of Pulse to the media, not only poured Cold Water on their efforts but completely blew them out of the water, as serious contenders.
Anyway, Jamaica has always had a Modeling and Fashion Industry, and from the very get-go, and it has always been a competitive field, particularly the field of modeling. In fact it was the competitive nature of the industry, which led to the first ‘official’ staging of Model Pagent, which saw Audrey Burgess Barakatt and Nancy Martin, walking into Jamaica’s Modeling history.
Later, when the Kingsley Cooper-led Pulse organization, took up the challenge and stepped in, to carve out an industry, bringing order, recognition of the Models as talent, and an organized fee structure, to benefit the models. There was heavy pushback. As in the beginning, there were few, who mainly operated as freelancers, and were mostly underpaid. In the early days, they were mostly regarded as dilettantes, who were being given national exposure for their service, whose duty it was to show up, shut-up and strut their stuff. If that was what was required, and basically, act as goodwill brand ambassadors; expected to look pretty and smile for the cameras, and cut ribbons for openings, if a reigning Miss Jamaica, was not available.
But that was in the late 70s and early 80s, by the time the decade of the 80s, found its own footing, Jamaica’s fashion industry had come of age, with the emergence of Designers such as: Peggy McLean, for Klothes Kloset; Sadie Soas; Norma Soas, Soas House of Fashion; Annie Lopez; Ivy Ralph, who is credited for introducing the Kareba, (Known as the Bush-Jacket, in some spaces); Sonia Vaz, for Soni’s Swimwear; Thomas Garwood, for Allegro; Valerie Deans; Rupert Edwards For Saville Row House of Fashion; Elaine Dreyer For Fashion Whirl; Jim Prendergast for Joy Laine Manufacturing; Layne’ Witter for Laynes’; Barry Moncrieffe; Melody Dotsey for Fantasia; Patrick Waldemar and Leighton Ashley for Waldash; Sandra Kennedy for Chad; John Chambers for CAJ; Joy Mahfoor, for Sensation; Les Campbell; And Sadie McBean from Salon Capollini who did Hair and make-up for most of the shows, during the 80s. Joan Russell of Salon 21, being the Guest hair designer. And Ital Craft, By Cindy Breakspeare and Donna Coore, for Accessorises
When it came to Production, Direction, and or choreography; Pulse, was the leading Producers and Choreographers, Pulse Shows became Calendar events, such as the Peggy McLean Klothes Kloset Collection, produced by Hotelier and former Dancer Peter Fraser, was a Christmas staple; The AJ Brown Fashion Follies Produced and Directed and Choreographed by Carole Guntley Brady and Weston Haughton, and Bert Rose, drew crowds; And Layne Witter, for Laynes; And Elaine Dreyer of Fashion Whirl; were the highlights and highpoints of the fashion season.
But it was a fun time. A Bitchy time, with Models having elbow duels; Designers almost duking it out, over accusations of some designers having access to international Fashion Magazines and copying designs and reproducing them for local shows and consumption; Counter accusations of designers sending spies to other designer’s working salons/boutiques, to copy and or steal designs.
And then there were the Boutiques that supposedly shopped for and retailed Couture pieces, which stirred up a controversy, as the claim was the boutique in question was importing seconds and retailing them as one-of-a-kind Couture pieces with astronomical mark-ups, creating a backlash. This led to counter accusations of one boutique using her Companion’s diplomatic pouch to smuggle clothes in…also at exorbitant prices.
Mind you, the season really was unending with many shows, from other Designers, Garden Parties; Fashion Soirees, Boutiques; Fundraisers; Charity Balls and other events’ Plus visiting ensembles and international designers, such as Madam Carven, and a retinue of Models, out of Paris, France, in collaboration with the French Embassy; Allan Bailey, out of New York; international Modeling Stars; hopefuls; and fledgling stars who went on to strike it big like Halle Berry; and Nigerian Model turned Actor, Adewale; Canadian Cover girl, Model Linda Carter; And the all-time Discovery of the ModellingIndustry, Claudette Lopez, whose body was said to be so perfect, it was reportedly used as the model for the locally made and distributed Mannequin of the era.
In celebration of the work and contribution of those whose effort and dedication made the transformation happen, we look at some early outstanding models, pioneers even, who made a difference.
It is important to know we list them alphabetically, for easy recall and reading and not in terms of ratings. We trust you find the presentation informative, entertaining and educational…
Fashion Editor
1.Audrey Burgess-Barakatt; Audrey, was truly a gazelle on and off stage, her lithe frame, made her a favourite of the designers at the time, as it was said, she wore everything well. Consequently, she was the reigning Queen of the runway for many seasons. Today, Audrey commutes between the US West Coast and Kingston.
- Beverley Corke: Bev Corke, was a fashion classicist, who worked a stage like the pro she was. Watching her strutting her stuff was indeed a joy to behold, her sleeked back hair; helping to define her features and underlining her status of a woman of beauty.. Bev Corke, reportedly loperates a Grooming and Etiquette Consultancy, around the Caribbean with a base in Barbados,
3.Nancy Martin: Nancy Martin, first came to the attention of the public by way of the Miss Jamaica Universe Beauty Pageant, It was during this pageant that designers first sat up and took notice of her unique style of modeling as, she did not seek to copy the modeling style of her frontrunners, of camping it up or leaning into it to create elongated silhouettes and or the vamp effect, she simply walked, and commanded the stage, with the magnetism of a Cat on the hunt.. Today Nancy Martin, iis living in Dominica, her husband, Ivor Nassief.a leading Businessman and politician.
4.Tobi Phillips: Tobi, was an actress, who gained ‘notoriety’ for her Nude Scene in the movie Children Of Babylon alongside Bob Andy, causing quite a social hiccup, as she, being a near White woman, appearing on stage in the nude alongside a Blackman, did not sit well with the Establishment class at the time. But she had the look, body and personal style that made her standout and hers was a cool stage presence that reeked of aloof professionalism and not the fraternal order. Today, Tobi, reportedly owns and Operates a Boutique, in Ocho Rios
- Bernadette McKinley: Now Bernadette McKinley, was a household name from the very get-go. Having been a favoutite for the Miss Jamaica World title, earlier, when she transitioned to modeling, she was celebrated for her poise, grace, and serene elegance, when she strutted, as she channeled pure sophistication. Today, Bernadette, is happily Married to Joe Matalon, lives in Kingston, and Travells the world,
- Sheila Hylton: Sheila Hylton, came to modeling from the Airline and Music Industry, having served as Flight Attendant; she was exploring her option as a singer. Described as a Trailblazer, that she was, and then some! it is often said, that Sheila was the first “authentic” Black Model, to walk the Jamaican runway. The story is, she never enjoyed modeling because her boyfriend at the time, was never fond of seeing her on the runway way and would object to her, donning swimsuits and or any other outfit he considered ‘too revealing’.She was, however, an outstanding model and a frontrunner.
Today, Sheila is semi-retired, Lives in New York City still keeps an active performing schedule and keeps a presence on Social media platforms as a social and reggae Historian.
- Karen Neita: Karen Neita, was the Model’s Model. Svelte, polished and oozing sophistication, like a grand dame impervious to it all, as she commandeered the runway, and made it do her bidding as she strutted her magic. Dubbed a Natural, Karen was not only a fave of the designers, she was a crowd favourite who ruled the runways for many seasons. Today, Karen is Jamaica’s Leading Lifestyle Consultant,
- Althea Laing: Althea, Laing hit the runway late, as she did so at the ripe old age of 28, a number some still dispute to this day, by entering the Pulse Miss Jamaica Fashion Model Contest and winning, back in 1985. Now Althea had that long lean figure, that one designer likened unto a Hanger, in that she could wear anything. But it was not just her long lean figure, Althea had developed and perfected her own modeling technique during the Miss Jamaica Competition, which made her the First model, to actually engage her audience, by flashing bright smiles; including striking dramatic poses when working the runway and basically, became a crowd-pleaser instead of a walking mannequin. Today Althea is a Leading Etiquette and Grooming Expert, living in Mandeville, Jamaica.
- April Parchment: April Parchment, brought unapologetic sexiness to the runway and hot up everybody’s nerves. She was never fat or Fluffy, but had an ample body, gorgeously defined, a beautiful face and mouth that could pout like a house on fire, and she knew how to flirt with her audience, and did, and so became one of the hottest models of the Period. Today April, is a Qualified Nurse, who who practices In Miami, Florida. And maintain a home in Coral Gardens, Montego Bay.
- Jackie Tyson: It was said that Jackie Tyson, came out of nowhere and took the industry by storm. But the truth is Jackie Tyson, was a model by training who had done some modeling courses, with famed grooming and etiquette specialist Molly DaSilava, and was an entrant in the Miss Jamaica Fashion Model Pageant, before setting her eyes on the runway, and took up the challenge to walk for Designer Elaine Witter for Layne’s Fashions; and with her own inimitable strut, strutted her way into fashion history. Today, Jackie is the Caribbean’s leading Culinary Consultant, Caterer, Events Planner and Design Consultant., living in Kingston.
- Joan McDonald: Joan, was another crossover talent, who came to modeling from the world of beauty, and the School of Dance, some reports say she was invited to model, by Choreographer Bert Rose, and Designers started requesting her after. and having been crowned Miss Jamaica World in the 1978 contest, Joan was uncommonly beautiful and boasted a near-charcoal complexion. And had developed her own style of walking, that was later dubbed the Executive Strut. The fact that she had developed a reputation for being easy to work with, in an era when many Models were Prima Donnas, made her a crowd favourite as well. Today, Joan is a Cultural, Fashion and Make-up Consultant, still residing In Jamaica.
- Debbie Whittingham: Came from a long and established line of beautiful women. She also came to modeling from the beauty industry, and brought to the runway, a spirited strut, that was half playful and half rock-star, but was all Model and Fashion. With a warm personality that was so likable, many of her Runway fans assumed they were Friends. Today, Debbie is A Real Estate Agent, working and residing in the US State of Florida.
- Jacqui Gareaves: Jacqui Gareaves, was the reluctant model – She had the natural poise, body, and grace to make a hit of it, but there was no escaping the fact that Jacquie was not about modeling. But what was clear, Modeling and the fraternity of modeling, was about her and she became a Runway staple and crowd favourite, Some dubbing her: Fashion forward. She went on to being a Hair, and Makeup Consultant and still operates as such, today.
- Judith Gould: Judith Gould, was really in a class by herself. So avant-garde, So uniquely different, it’s like she was a period character, trapped in time. She was muse, canvas, and artist on the runway all rolled in one. Its as if she was Present, on stage, but not necessarily there. But somehow, Eerily reminiscent of Karen Neita.
Today, Judith is An Attorney-at-Law, living in the UK/
- Audie Coulliton-Moore: it was said, that Audie Coulliton-Moore, was one of the prettiest Miss Jamaica World Contestants, never to have won the Miss Jamaica World Crown. She did place second, however, to a popular Queen, Debbie Campbell, who went on to be crowned the 2nd Runner-up To Miss World, in 1979.
Audie Coulliton-Moore, was a black beauty and a rarified one at that as she was a Country girl, who was a natural, never attempting to mask her rural background, up-brining or beliefs, she transitioned to being a model but was bereft of any expectations. And so not driven by the passion to break out of the Island mold for International Stardom, hers was a short runway life, But Today she is still remembered and celebrated for her beauty, grace and contribution to the fashion Industry, as a model. As there were many who thought, she was indeed a Black Cinderella.Sadly, Audie Culliton-Moore, suffered what was a suspected Cardiac arrest in 2011, and is no longer with us, but her legend, lives on as one of the earliest pioneers of the modeling industry, albeit, a reluctant one!
